Wednesday, March 1

Living In Navajo Land

I am a white woman living in Shiprock, New Mexico. It is a small town on the Navajo Reservation. Walking from my home, a double wide trailer in a very nice little treed area where all the neighbors are sisters or aunties or grandmas…except us “Anglos” that is, walking from home to the grocery store I pass 4 churches, 2 video stores, 4 gas stations and a flea market where you can buy chunks of coal or fresh melons – depending on the season, hay, used videos, pirated CDs, jewelry, pottery, fry bread and mutton stew.

I see lots of semi trucks, and new pickups crossing the San Juan River. I pass MacDonalds, Burger King, Taco Bell, KFC, Subway, and a little Chinese Restaurant. There are a lot of stray dogs and a few stray people.

It’s a 2 ½ mile walk from home to City Market, and just a little farther to the Post Office. I don’t have to pay for my post office box, because it’s the only way you can get your mail. No mail delivery and no pizza delivery in Shiprock.

No street names or street addresses either. My school is about 1 mile more.

It is a middle school, with 450 students and about 1/3 of the teachers are Native American. 97% of the students are Native.

Sometimes I see a teepee in the neighborhood. That is not a good thing. A teepee means a Medicine Man is in the area doing ceremonies. One of the teachers in our school, an Anglo, committed suicide last weekend. Her service is tomorrow. Our vice principal will not be going to the service. He is “traditional” and is not allowed to attend a white person’s funeral. If he did he would have to go to a medicine man for a ceremony. Medicine Men charge quite a lot for their services, sometimes as much as $500 and two sheep.

In January the mutilated body of a young student was found in a field. He had been missing for about a week, and it looked like dogs had gotten hold of his body. Did I mention the stray dogs? Anyway, the people who worked in the building next to the field where he was found had to have a ceremony done for them because they saw the dead body.

When I walk at night I whistle. Just to make my Navajo friends nervous. If you whistle at night you will attract a Skinwalker. A Skinwalker is the Navajo equivalent to a Werewolf and many people hear swear that they really exist.

I’ve never seen one.

The nearest non-reservation town is Farmington, New Mexico. It’s really trying to be a nice American Town. Rents are pretty high and many new houses are going up. Very nice new houses! They have a beautiful new library.

When you go in the door, look up. You will see an eagle’s feather hanging from the ceiling. There is also one in the new Best Buy store. Those feathers are indications that a Medicine Man came and did a dedication ceremony. Did I mention that medicine men charge quite a lot for their services?

During my second year of teaching here in the Four Corners Region, I was in Farmington, one of my students was complaining of an ear ache. He was a beautiful child, long braid down his back, sparkling eyes. I told him to tell his mom. I could tell he was in a lot of pain. I said go tell your mom to take you to the clinic. They can give you some medicine. The Navajo get free medical care at the Shiprock Hospital, which is a nice – modern facility. But my student told me, “Oh don’t worry Mrs. Brokop. My father is taking me to a medicine man on Saturday.”

My students wear jeans and Slipknot tee shirts. A few of the boys have long hair but not many. They watch DVDs and have Ipods and Cell Phones, and most of the boys skate board. It’s the modern version of the “pony” I think.

The boys play football before school and the girls giggle a lot.

But a number of my students live in homes without electricity or running water. They know how to butcher sheep; water trucks deliver water and propane trucks deliver gas. Some have to walk 3 miles to the bus stop.

Christian Missionaries have been doing work here for 200+ years. There are quite a few missions still operating. Many churches of all denominations. A strong Mormon influence. Some Muslims are moving in. Less than 10% of the Native American Population identifies itself as Christian. Many still see Jesus as the white man’s God, although he probably looked more like them than most white men.

Someone asked if there was a curse on the land, in view of all the tragedies and violence we’ve experienced this school year. I’d have to say, yes, a curse and a promise.

I love it here. I love the way it looks and smells, although we could use some rain. I love these beautiful people. And I believe that God has put this love for them in my heart for a purpose. We might have to move on from here soon, and that makes me very sad. I can’t imagine not teaching a native population. I can’t imagine not seeing these bright eyes and hearing these hearty laughs. I will go where the LORD leads, when He leads, but for now, I will relish each day I spend living in Navajo Land, and prayer without ceasing for my students and my neighbors.